California’s 2023 crush finally concluded in late November after a cooler, wetter than normal growing season that prolonged ripening. In general, the volume and quality of the white and early red grapes appear to have benefitted from the extended hangtime; the later-season reds still managed to ripen in time, but potentially sized-up to a lesser extent. A significant number of rejections occurred due to high fungus pressure and rot, and some uncontracted grapes went unpicked amid a slow sales year, certainly curtailing the volume that crossed the scales: Our final guesstimate before the CDFA’s preliminary grape crush report in February remains in line with last month’s 3.5-3.6 million tons, but the extent of sizing in September surprised many, and the crush size could possibly have nudged above that estimate.
The feeling in the North Coast is that the crush returned to a more ‘normal’ level after the short years of 2022 and 2021, and the wildfire-hit year of 2020. Rejections occurred, and some grapes were left unpicked, but not to the same extent as in the Interior. Chardonnay sized-up most, followed by other whites, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, while some sizing on Cabernet appeared to offset the impact of spring shatter on that varietal. The Central Coast picture was similar: A larger crop than last year is expected, especially in Monterey and Santa Barbara. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir seemed to size most; Cabernet and Petite Sirah enjoyed less hangtime and sized less.
Grape rejections were common in the southern Interior, growing fewer further northward. Thinning to avoid rot, and uncontracted grapes going unpicked, also took a toll on crush size. Whites started to get picked to a normal timetable, but areas experiencing higher yields took time to become ready; some Chardonnay was still on the vine when Cabernet was starting to get picked, and sized up. Overages on a range of varieties became available and there was some early movement on Sauvignon Blanc and – to a lesser extent – Chardonnay; this activity dried-up when the extent of the crop sizing became clearer.
Qualitatively, at this stage, the 2023 vintage generally seems a very good one, with chemistries and sugar levels benefiting from the prolonged hangtimes and the mild growing season lacking weather extremes. In addition, quality standards on grape contracts were strictly enforced. Ultimately, a high-quality vintage is good news for the end consumer, and attempts, in 2024 and beyond, to both retain them and boost their numbers.
Opportunities currently exist on the bulk market, for buyer and seller alike. Lower pricing on excellent-quality wines frees up the industry to innovate with new brands and products – some of which we are already starting to see emerge – that hopefully engage new consumers and younger demographics. Meanwhile, suppliers working to become more flexible in building and maintaining partnerships with buyers are laying the groundwork for their greater future resilience. The old proverb’s probably true: “Necessity is the mother of invention.”
Read on for a detailed assessment of the marketplace as it currently stands and – for the most up-to-the-minute information – get in touch with Ciatti directly, the broker team stands ready to help guide buyers and sellers through this challenging time. All would like to wish you and yours a very Happy Holidays and a prosperous New Year!